Check Out This Awesome Alaska Cruise for 2025!

Check Out This Awesome Alaska Cruise for 2025!

Cruise Lines 2025-02-18 ParkingNearAirports.io

The boat was what stood out. Swell, run by Maple Leaf Adventures from Victoria, British Columbia, was built in 1912 as a wooden tugboat. Refitted in 2004, it now serves as a stylish 88-foot expedition cruiser for 12 guests, 5 crew, and an onboard naturalist. Full disclosure: the ocean isn't a favorite, but a boat is fine for travel when it's needed, and there was always a desire to see Alaska's southeastern coast.


Swell was attractive because it isn't a luxury hotel on water, but instead a brave former workboat. With a 12-foot draft, it can access the nooks and crannies of the Alexander Archipelago, home of the Tlingit nation. Even the name of its midsummer journey sounded adventurous: the Alaska Supervoyage. This 11-day trip is like a wildlife safari through whale-filled waters, past ancient rainforests, and into glacier-laden fjords – some of the wildest views on earth.

So what unforgettable wildlife encounters await?

Source: Paxson Woelber/Unsplash

Monday

The first full day on the water started with rain in the morning and more rain in the afternoon. Luckily, Maple Leaf's pre-trip packing checklist had recommended a full set of waterproofs. Alaskan wisdom says there's no bad weather, only bad clothing.


During breakfast, Manda McCoy, a fellow nature buff, chatted away. At 40, she was the youngest passenger on board, traveling with her octogenarian aunt, Lindsay Hofman. McCoy suggested keeping a wildlife log and established some ground rules: a second spotter needed to verify each sighting, and eagles wouldn't count since they were as common as crows. By day's end, McCoy wondered if the recordkeeping could keep up with the sightings.


"There's a grizzly on shore! Grizzly bear, starboard bow!" announced the English-born captain, Matt Whelan, over the ship's intercom after lunch. A sudden leap from the bunk happened, as trying to remember which side was starboard was a challenge.


Then a guest shouted "humpback!" and pointed toward a whale gliding parallel to the shore. Suddenly, an eagle swooped into view, followed by a sea lion popping up. Laughter filled the air with wonder. "Bear, whale, sea lion, eagle," McCoy exclaimed, like a director calling the cast. "Action!"

Tuesday

After a morning trip in one of Swell's 2 Zodiacs, called Flotsam and Jetsam, a cruise to Warm Springs Bay revealed a distinct scent of schooling salmon – a fresh, ocean-like aroma. Less appealing was the intermittent rotten-egg smell from the heated sulfur springs. "It should be called Scalding Springs Bay," Whelan remarked.


In the afternoon, naturalist Misty MacDuffee talked about how salmon are the backbone of the ecosystem. Not only in the ocean; there were also salmon in the trees, said MacDuffee, who resembled Sissy Spacek and had a voice like Diane Keaton. She explained that when the last Ice Age melted, 14,000 to 12,000 years ago – just a blink in geologic history – it left behind bare rock. How did the lush rainforest fill the barren land so quickly?


One theory is that salmon returned to Alaska's thawed rivers from southern refuges. After they spawned, they died and were consumed by bears, wolves, eagles, otters, and crows, which spread salmon-based fertilizer across the land. Plants then moved in: an ecological succession of lichens, mosses, grasses, shrubs, and deciduous trees. Last to show up were giant cedar, hemlock, and spruce trees, which can grow up to 12 feet wide and live a thousand years – the stable climax forest seen through the portholes as MacDuffee spoke.

Wednesday

Morning brought a surprise: MacDuffee received a text that a friend was visiting the small settlement near Warm Springs. Within the hour, conservation scientist Lauren Eckert, a board member of the Alaska Whale Foundation, joined to give an impromptu talk linking the ocean's largest creatures, baleen whales, with its smallest, the tiny floating zooplankton that whales eat in huge amounts.


Alaska's humpback whale population, one of several baleen species, has bounced back since the 1982 international whaling ban. "Save the Whales" worked, Eckert noted, showing that social and cultural change globally can happen "essentially overnight." Sadly, Eckert's optimistic story had a caveat: whales face new threats, this time from an underwater heat wave called the Blob, disrupting food supplies due to climate change.


Source: Kathrine Coonjohn/Unsplash

Thursday

The day began clear and bright at 4 a.m. – this was known because the curtains were left open. The waters of Security Bay, the overnight anchorage, were perfectly calm and filled with sea otters. They glided by, both alone and in pairs, leaving V-shaped wakes behind. Weather moved in during breakfast, prompting everyone to gear up for the Zodiacs. Just a few minutes out, first mate Bryan Bowles noticed a 400-yard single-file line of… something. It turned out to be a massive group of sea otters, a so-called raft, likely around 100 in total. Even MacDuffee felt a thrill at the sight. "How do you know you're in Alaska? A hundred sea otters!"

Friday

After breakfast, a small group set off on a kayaking trip around Brothers Islands. Shy harbor seals peeked up from kelp beds and vanished in an instant. The rarest sighting of the day was a giant starfish, known as a sunflower sea star – its 20 arms can span 3 feet.


After lunch, Swell cruised up Frederick Sound. The intercom crackled to life. "I don't know the collective noun for this many whales," the captain said, "but there are a bunch of humpbacks coming up – it's a soup of whales."


By the time they reached the bow, the group was ecstatic. A cow and calf surfaced within 100 feet. Many more whales were feeding in the distance. Someone spotted seven blows at once. MacDuffee counted 3 separate groups of a dozen each. Farther out, visible only with binoculars, so many humpbacks were spouting that you couldn't not see one – 360 degrees of whales.

Saturday and Sunday

In Alaska, grizzly-bear hunting is allowed everywhere except in a sanctuary on Admiralty Island called Pack Creek, where bears have lived undisturbed by humans since the 1930s. Visitors can only come under strict ranger supervision. Advance reservations are necessary, groups are small, and no food can be on shore.


The Swell anchored several miles away, hidden in Windfall Harbor, a cove surrounded by tall granite peaks with waterfalls. Due to visitor quotas at Pack Creek, the group split into 2. One party took off in a Zodiac, while the rest scanned for wildlife. Salmon swarmed along the shore, jumping at nothing. Whelan guided Hofman and a friend on a hike through the estuary. Signs of bear activity, like tracks and chewed plants, were plentiful, and they ended their hike early when the ship called over the walkie-talkie about a bear approaching.


The next morning, it was the group's turn at Pack Creek. They landed on a cobble spit and walked to a gravel area above a stream. The bears paid no attention to them. One bear dug clams on the mudflats, while a 15-year-old female known to the rangers napped on the opposite bank. 2 black-tailed deer emerged from the woods and grazed peacefully behind her until the wind changed, carrying the grizzly's scent, causing them to bolt, tails signaling danger.


Source: Robert Boston/Unsplash

Monday

Alaska serves as a rich feeding ground for humpbacks, partly due to mineral-rich glacial runoff nourishing plankton blooms. During the last 2 days, glacier hunting was the focus. A fjord named Endicott Arm was followed to its furthest end, revealing the towering face of Dawes Glacier. The rocky fjord was devoid of trees – they hadn't yet arrived – and the glaciated side canyons displayed the classic U shape, resembling Yosemite Valley. Seals rested on small ice floes. With chef Guy Morgan's help, a 10-pound piece of floating ice was wrestled aboard for cocktail hour. It appeared clearer than rock crystal and was covered in dimples, resembling a cut-glass trinket. Morgan chiseled it into blocky cubes for G&Ts, which a guest playfully named "Ice Age cocktails."

Tuesday

The last wildlife encounter of the trip turned out to be the best, almost as if it were planned. After a morning exploring an eerie, ice-filled glacial fjord on Zodiacs, everyone was cozy in their cabins when an intercom announcement called them to the deck. A group of 5 humpback whales was bubble-net feeding – an amazing natural show. They worked together to herd baitfish into a tight ball near the surface, using vocal coordination. MacDuffee dropped a microphone into the water so everyone could listen. At a precise signal – a sustained note – all the whales fell silent, then lunged upward through the bait ball in unison. The surface seemed to explode with whales, their massive mouths wide open. It was a breathtaking sight. That afternoon, while sipping Ice Age cocktails on the deck and sharing stories of the incredible day, someone suggested a new collective term: a symphony of whales.

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